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泳衣常见疵点

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1#
发表于 2012-2-12 19:00:14 | 只看该作者 回帖奖励 |倒序浏览 |阅读模式
以下是我公司的其中一个泳衣客户给出的质量标准的一个部分,是由小弟翻译出来的,大家给点意见。

BASIC QUALITY INSPECTION STANDARDS (cout)常见的质量标准
CLASSIFICATION BANK MAJOR DEFECT EXPLANATION
分类 级别 严重疵点 定义

Packaging包装

Major严重

Size of the units marked on the package differs from size of garment包装表面的尺寸与衣服的实际尺寸不符



Major严重

Substituted color串色



Major严重

Substituted size串码



Minor轻微

Barcode data unreadable
条码不可识别



Minor轻微

Missing tickets or sticker
漏贴贴纸


Labeling商标

Major
严重

Brand, size or content label missing, incorrect, illegible
遗失 错误 违法的品牌名称 尺寸或成分

Brand/size must be correct content label must follow FTC guidelines商标/尺码依据FTC准则必须正确


Major
严重

Brand or size label not caught completely or not sewn securely
商标 尺码商标未车稳


Fabric布料

Minor
轻微

Substitution or poor match of color or print pattern when compared to master swatches 颜色与布办不同

Color may be off shade, print pattern may be off shade or incorrect颜色有色差,色办可能有色差或不正确


Major
严重

Fabric pattern not balanced and/or symmetrically matched
货布与布办不符

Horizontal plaid or stripe must be even across the top center
水平格子必须平直


Minor
轻微

Not as pictured/incorrect style 不同图案



Major
严重

Shading色差

Variation in color between and/or within panels or between garments in a multi-garment selling unit
同一片或不同片或不同一件衣服之间颜色有级色


Major
严重

Hole in fabric布料有烂洞

Do not include needle cuts here


Major
严重

Thin place薄段

Situations where either the wrap or fill yarn is missing or broken leaving thin in fabric
织布时纬纱或喂纱不到位或断裂导致布料有薄段


Major
薄段

Conspicuously irregular or distorted construction 明显的结构弯曲

Sloppy sewing or cutting results in irregular or distorted construction斜织或裁剪导致结构弯曲


Major
严重

Conspicuous repair to body fabric or component parts在布料上的明显的补痕

Repairs of some fabric defect are allowed if the repair is neat.补痕可接受如果补得好



Major
严重

Soil污渍



Major
严重

Defective elastic次品橡筋



Major
严重

Runner in knitted fabric
走纱



Major
严重

Slub粗节

Usually caused by an extra piece of yarn that is woven or knitted into the fabric. It can also be caused by thick place in the yarn . Often is caused by fly waste being spun in the yarn during the spinning process. Location, size and type are important 织布时有多余的纱线织进布里.也有可能是纱线有粗节.经常发生在纺纱时有杂物飞进.位置 大小和种类是很重要的.


Major
严重

Conspicuous horizontal streak in knitted fabric
针织布里的明显的横条疵



Major
严重

Conspicuous needle streak in knitted fabric
针织布的明显的针痕

This defect must be conspicuous as it will not affect the item's serviceability 这个疵点必须是非常明显的,如果不明显,将不影响布的用途


Major
严重

Fabric flaw 布疵

Any fabric defect that has not been previously defined先前未说明的其他布疵


Major
严重

Break in print pattern印花破裂

Usually caused in roller printed where the print roller has stopped and stared leaving a gap经常是圆筒印花时停止留下的痕迹


Minor
轻微

Substituted fabric 代用布

When 1 or more garments in that lot are of a fabric, color, print, or shade which is different than the balance of the lot 1件或多件衣服的布料 颜色 印花或色泽与第1LOT不同


Major
严重

Barre纬向条痕

A barre will appear as a horizontal streak through the fabric occurs in circular knits.
圆筒织布时出现的纬向条痕



Major
严重

Fabric bowing that is more than 1/4" in 6" horizontal measurement or is more than 1" over full body width of fabric布料在水平6"弯斜1/4"或在整个布身中弯斜1"

Fabric bowing identifies a finishing defect. If does not affect the items serviceability only the salability. Bowing is usually found in the finishing of tubular knit fabric布料弯斜是属于织布完成的疵点,如果不影响布料的用途但影响销售.这种情况通常发生在管道布种上

Skewing歪斜

Major
严重

Skewing-skewness in fabric more than 3% of 60" goods布料上60"中超过3%

Width of garment/tolerance衣服的宽度/容忍度
10" up to 15" 3/8"
15" up to 18" 1/2"
18" up to 22" 5/8"

Sewing车缝

Minor
轻微

Substitution of seam type
改变缝型种类



Minor
轻微

Substitution of stitch class
改变线迹种类



Major
严重

Seam grin笑口

Caused by loose stitches (tension) stitches too larger. If seam does not close properly or if very little tension necessary to cause separation this is seam grin由于线松导致.


Minor
轻微

Stitch count more or less than the specified tolerance
针步多或少于具体要求

Stitch per inch (SPI)
每寸的针步


Major
严重

Broken stitch断线

A broken stitch on any onfunction a or decoration seam is a major defect
任何部位的断线或装饰线断线都属于大疵点


Major
严重

Needle cuts on knit fabric that cause a runner or a hole针织布的针孔会导致烂洞或散口

No defect exists where the needle distorts the knitting fabric without cutting it针穿过布料时未有杂断纱就不会产生此现象


Major
严重

Open seam 开骨



Major
严重

Skipped stitch (lock stitch)跳线(锁链线)

Two consecutive skips constitutes a major defect
连续两步跳线,是严重疵点

Sewing (cout)

Major
严重

Conspicuous seam repair明显的缝骨补痕

Sloppy repair is a major defect whenever a chain stitch seam is repaired be sure that the repair locks in both ends of the broken stitch or else the chain stitch will ravel out弯斜的补痕是严重的疵点.任何情况下要确保锁链线要从头锁到尾,不然会导致散口


Major
严重

Conspicuous waste sewn into the outside of the garment or exposed when garment is worn or used.
在衣服表面有明显的多余缝线,使衣服看起来像是破损的或是穿着过的

This defect is caused by small pieces of being sewn into the seam. The defect does not weaken the garment but could affect the item's appearance是由于缝部件的时候造成的,这种疵点不影响衣服的用途,但一项衣服的外观


Major
严重

2#
 楼主| 发表于 2012-2-12 19:00:20 | 只看该作者
Conspicuous pleat unintentionally formed by folding fabric into seam车骨位时打褶[/td][td][/td][td]
Location is critical由所在的位置决定其严重性[/td][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]
[/td][td]
Major
严重[/td][td][/td][td]
Conspicuous puckering of seam缝骨有明显的打褶 [/td][td][/td][td]
Some fabric cannot be sewn without some minor distortion车缝有些布料时不可避免[/td][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]
[/td][td]
Major
严重[/td][td][/td][td]
Fraying of material材料毛边 [/td][td][/td][td]
[/td][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]
[/td][td]
Major
严重[/td][td][/td][td]
Conspicuous raw edge that could affect durability or appearance影响衣服耐用性或外观的明显的散边[/td][td][/td][td]
A raw edge can be either single or multiple plies of fabric not folded under and concealed or not caught and covered in stitching. This will fray. Do not count a raw edge conspicuous that measures 1/4" or less, located on a pant inseam/outseam, as long as no more than 2 incident.单层或多层布料未折好或未车好导致散边.对于裤子来说,少于1/4”及不会在内侧骨或外侧骨出现2次,都可接受[/td][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]
Sewing (cout)[/td][td]
Minor
轻微[/td][td][/td][td]
Substitution of thread代用线[/td][td][/td][td]
[/td][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]
[/td][td]
Major
严重[/td][td][/td][td]
Mismatch of thread color线不配色[/td][td][/td][td]
[/td][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]
[/td][td]
Major
严重[/td][td][/td][td]
Stitching off elastic, tapes, or trim onto body fabric which is not intended车橡筋 捆条 其他辅料时落坑[/td][td][/td][td]
[/td][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]
[/td][td]
Major
严重[/td][td][/td][td]
Any skip stitch will ravel (non-lock stitch)跳线引起散边(非锁链线)[/td][td][/td][td]
Usually found a chain stitch.
经常在锁链线中出现[/td][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]
[/td][td]
Major
严重[/td][td][/td][td]
Conspicuous incomplete embroidery绣花漏线[/td][td][/td][td]
[/td][td][/td][/tr][tr][td][/td][td][/td][td][/td][td][/td][td][/td][td][/td][td][/td][/tr][/table]


Major
严重

Seam closure causing "step" at top of bottom. Seam closure uneven, off more than 1/8"缝线宽窄超过1/8”



Major
严重

Shirring not evenly distributed缩褶分布不均


Binding splice捆条

Major
严重

Binding has been sewn together before attaching neck and hem在车领与衫脚前先落捆条

Not allowed on front of garment不允许出现在前幅

Odor异味

Major
严重


There should not be any strong or offensive odor on the garment after processing因生产过程引起的异味

Incorrect Spelling错误配饰

Major
严重


All words applied in any manner to a garment must be spelled correctly所有配饰必须正确

Hole-needle cut针孔

Major
严重


Usually caused by a sharp needle or a burr on the needle that will cut or break the yarn. Needle holes will tend to enlarge or run during handling, wear, or cleaning. Any occurrence of a needle hole is a major defect由于针太锋利或钝砸断纱导致.针孔会在穿着处理过程中变大.针孔是严重的疵点t

Roping严重扭曲

Major
严重


A twisting of fabric or time. Typically found on hems, piping and/or binding. Normally caused when piping, binding or fabric is not cut on the bias. Can also be caused by improper sewing布料或辅料扭曲导致.通常出现在衫脚 捆条上.也经常是由于捆条或布料没有依照要求裁斜纹或车缝手势不良所致

Wetness潮湿

Major
严重


Any product that is moist or wet to the touch is a defect. Any consumer package that is wet even though the product may appear not be damaged, is a defect任何衣服手感潮湿就定义为是疵点.包装好的衣服潮湿也是疵点




Trimming剪线

Minor轻微

Generally untrimmed garment inside or outside衣服里外未有清干净线头



Minor轻微

Plymark tickets/defect stickers多余或损坏未清的贴纸


Open end seam (chain) stitch缝端散口

Major
严重

Must be caught in tack or other row of stitching to prevent runback必须用打枣或回针定死


Thread线头

Major
严重

Use of monofilament thread长线头


Body lining里布

Major
严重

Excessive fullness in length or width在长度或宽度上的 多余的抛位


Fusing 粘合

Major
严重

Discoloration of fabric due to fusing因粘合导致面料有异色


Ornaments配饰

Major
严重

Missing or not securely fastened遗漏或缝合不稳



Major
严重

Misplaced. Not uniform in position, being conspicuous明显错位或与要求的位置不符


Horizontal lace trimming水平的蕾丝辅料

Major
严重

Arc of lace irregular to point of garment appearing distorted蕾丝变形


Tack打枣

Major
严重

Omitted遗漏



Major
严重

Misplaced and not serving intended purpose错位或未达到要求


Hem卷边

Major
严重

Hem width varies more than 1/2" on any fabric任何部位1/2”卷边

Example: A 1" hem has a +/- 1/4" variance if hem is only narrow; however if hem is both wide and narrow tolerance will be +/-1/8"如卷边整体相差1/4”可接受,但如果宽窄即使是1/8”也不接受

Button or button hole纽扣或扣眼

Major
严重

Defective button纽扣次品



Major
严重

Stitches cut or raveling buttonhole not cut completely断线或散口及没有完全剪开的扣眼



Major
严重

Button not securely sewn纽扣不够牢固



Major
严重

Stitching too narrow, causing buttonhole to separate from fabric线迹太窄导致扣眼脱离布料



Major
严重

Substitution or incorrected thread color or buttonhole代用或错误的线色及扣眼



Major
严重

Missing button漏订扣


Damage损坏

Major
严重


Defect to products or components caused by mishandling rather than during assembly. Example cuts caused during opening of cartons, garments heat sealed to bag在后整中出现的疵点,如因开箱时造成的划痕或衣服进胶袋时引起的
3#
发表于 2012-2-12 19:00:26 | 只看该作者
写的太好了,很有用,在其他服装上也可以套用。
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