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MANUFACTURING AND WORKMANSHIP POINTS TO FOLLOW:
SEAMS & STITCHING 接缝与缝线
1 Seam slippage must fall within the Just Group Tolerance for each brand.
接缝不能脱落，其工差必须在Just Group 各品牌可接受范围内。
2 Stitching must not crack when seams are stretched.
缝线拉伸时不能有断裂声音或断裂(此处指"缩碎褶"处的"定位线"必须预先拉断，成品的"缩碎褶"缝边受到拉伸时不会再发出断裂声)。
3 There are to be no slipped stitches
不能漏针。
4 Stitch density must be correct…………10--12 stitches per 2.5cm.
缝线密度必须正确，每2.5cm缝10--12针。
5 Tension must be correct and must not pucker.
缝线张力必须正確，不能起皱。
6 Correct quality of thread must be used. Incorrect quality will cause puckering and breakage.
线须用对，不然会起皱或断裂。
7 Seam must be the correct width as per original spec sheet.
接缝宽度必须按原规格资料。
8 Topstitching must be even,correct tension,correct stitch lengths and not to have joins/over-sews.
临边缝线(面线)必须阔窄一致，缝线张力及线段长短要正確，不应驳线或超出特定范围外。
9 Threads used must be matching to fabric color or base color of fabric.
线色必须与净色布的颜色相配，或花布的底色相配。
10 There must not be any needle damage at seams or hemming.
各接缝位置，袖口及裤脚卷边位置不应有车针引起的疵点。
11 Seams must not rope at over-locking.
拷边线步不能太紧，引致止口卷起。
HEMS 脚
1 Hems must be level unless uneven design feature is requested.
袖口及裤脚卷边位置宽度必须一致（设计有特别要求的除外）。
2 Hems must be flat with no puckering ,rolling or twisting.
袖口及裤脚卷边位置布料必须平服，不可打皱/卷起/扭曲。
3 Hems must be seam on seam at turn-up to avoid twisting.
折缝袖口及裤脚边缘时，各个垂直的缝合线必须对準，否则会产生扭布。
4 Blind hems and collarette hems must be secure at ends of operation and must not be visible on the outside of the garment.
"盲针缝"的线末端必须锁紧。从外表不应察觉"盲针缝"线步。
HEMS (Continued)
5 Hems must be level at splits, zippers, pleats and vents
开叉处/拉链/打褶和洞口处的脚边须平衡。
6 Fabrics which are prone to drop,knits and bias cut fabrics, must be allowed to hang and then trimmed where needed to ensure a level hemline.
对于薄面料或面料组织松散的裁片、综纹裁的裁片，在折缝裙脚、衣脚或裤脚边缘时，必须先悬掛起来，再修剪使其长短适中。
7 Raw edge at hem on knit garments must be covered by twin needle cover-stitch,and must not be exposed.
对于针织袖口、裤脚或衣脚，其"双针纲底"缝线必须完全盖过止口。
8 Stitching must not crack when stretched.
缝线拉伸时不能有断裂声音或断裂(此处指"缩碎褶"处的"定位线"必须预先拉断，成品的"缩碎褶"缝边受到拉伸时不会再发出断裂声)。
ZIPPERS 拉链
1 YKK or LZF are approved brands."Pirate"zippers can't be used.All other brands must be approved by the Just Group QA dept.
拉链指定用“YKK”或“LZF”，不能用假货。如用其他品牌需经Just Group批准。
2 The zipper must slide smoothly……stitching between 2mm to 3mm from the zipper teeth.
拉链拉时需顺畅，车线与拉链齿间的距离为2--3mm。
3 No puckering or stretching of fabric when zipper is inserted.
当拉链装上后布料外观不能起皱或拉长。
4 Zipper must be completely covered when closed.
当拉链合拢时，钮牌必须完全盖过拉链，不能露齿。
5 Tape extensions at the top must be securely enclosed in the facing or waistband…………no raw edges showing.
"拉链带""顶部多出的止口应藏入腰头贴内，不能外露。
6 Tape extension in facing or light weight fabrics must be neatly clipped to take away the bulk.
拉链头底布必须平整，里面多余的布要修整。
7 Zippers tape tail must be secured with back tack to the seam allowance….this applies to both lap style and invisible zippers.
对于某些"隐藏拉链款式"或"外露拉链款式"，其拉链带尾端须与衣身的止口用平车缝合。
8 Stitching must be straight and parallel to the zipper teeth.
压线要与拉链平衡。
9 Zippers on pants and jean style skirts must be reinforced with a bar tack 5mm above the slide stopper, when the slider is pulled down to the lowest position the strain is taken away from the zipper.
裤与裙的拉链尾要打套结5mm，因此当拉开拉链时，缝口不会爆烈。
ZIPPERS (Continued)
10 Seams which cross the slide fastener must not pucker or form pleats
对于某些款式，其拉链末端被缝合在衣片之内。
11 Stitching line must be straight and correct width closure as per spec sheet.
压线须按规格并平直。 |
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发表于 2007-11-23 18:19:26
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发表于 2007-11-28 09:28:03
